New York City Day 6: Last Day = Relax Day!

"I just saw a woman dying on the street, two funeral processions, and a man get punched in the same block in Chinatown. I think I'm ready to go home."

Although my day started off rough (all because I wanted a sesame ball in Chinatown), the rest of the day proved to be a relaxing pace. It had to have been one of the hottest days of my visit, so much so that there were numerous fires in the subway tunnels which caused me to walk on the surface of Manhattan. I attempted to visit the Met but it was closed on Mondays, then ventured through Central Park, getting lost on the way. That's ok! I found a castle, a moat, and ran into Strawberry Fields again. When I finally came to a clearing there I was, in front of the American Museum of Natural History. I had a nice little coconut ice cream bar and headed in to stake out in the cool air conditioning for many hours. Ahhh civilization.


The museum had huge banners for a show called Journey To The Stars which I decided to see. Although it was narrated by Whoopie Goldberg, I was not impressed at all. The content must have been targeted at an audience about half my age. "Something that has a large mass has a lot of stuff inside it!"

I decided that since this was my last day I would go to the East Village and get an awesome slice of pizza at a store I'd wandered by often - Muzzarella Pizza. It was full of veggies and oh so wonderful! I nearly scarfed it down when a nice older Puerto Rican man pulled up a seat next to me and started randomly talking to me. We talked about family and relationships and he was the nicest man ever. He said he'd pray for my safe return home. How incredibly random.

I honestly forgot what I did for the rest of the evening besides take a nice walk on the Brooklyn Bridge and attempt to join my friends at a Bingo night. I arrived at the Bowery Poetry Club a little after Bingo night had started to a drag queen announcing the silly prizes. I couldn't find a seat except at the very back and when attempting to buy a bingo card I was yelled at by some fat girl saying I was blocking the view. I obviously needed a drink but when I tried to order a beer the bartender never brought it to me and I was asked to give up my seat to 'people who had bingo cards'. I'd had my share of New York City rudeness but none so much as the cool artsy hipsters of the East Village, ironically. I headed to Mc Sorelys again as if to completely change the scenery (no drag-queen hosted bingo night for me, I'll take my Gangs of New York City backdrop please). I had a few ales and was finally able to spot Houdini's handcuffs as there was actual standing room this night.

Mc Sorely's on a Monday / Houdini's hand cuffs

I had a great trip full of adventures! I wish I'd have had more time to relax in the city. Sometimes when you go somewhere you haven't been in a long time there is pressure to fit in as much as you can. Perhaps my next visit to the city won't be so hectic, I hope so :-)

New York City Day 5 : Walk, walk, walk, walk....

Finally I had a good night's rest! I started by day going next door for some coffee and some fruit from their wonderful breakfast bar. It's been so convenient to have the Cranberry Cafe right next to the hostel... great food, 24-hours, and affordable. I've been having to force myself to not eat there for every meal and to actually try out the other amazing foods this city has to offer.

I wanted to check out Hell's Kitchen Flea Market this morning but in order to do so I spent about 30 minutes trying to get around a huge half-marathon race going straight through Time Square. When I got there I felt as if I were intruding on a private party of the vendors. Once again, as for most of this trip it seems, it was a case of 'out and about way too early'. It was incredibly hot today and all they had at this market was full of nice antiques and winter jackets, neither of which appealed to me. On my way out, an Asian man pulled me aside to his massage tent. I insisted that I definitely did not want a massage but he gave me a sample, refusing to let me go. I finally broke loose saying firmly "Don't touch me again." He obviously did not get my business and I bolted out of there.

I decided to head to the Village... again. I was desiring a nice brunch and this seemed to be the area to do so. I walked into Veselka and had a mimosa, the Chef's Omelet (feta cheese and spinach), and some Challah. It was so incredibly delicious, though I'm not sure how Ukranian it was was, haha. An artist Greta Gertler wrote a song about this restaurant (called Veselka) I discovered later and have fallen in love with it! Check it out on the restaurant's website.

I decided to walk down the Bowery to Chinatown to walk off all the food I've even by the ripe hour of 10:30am. I walked past a block dedicated to restaurant equipment, for lighting and lamps, and finally made it to Chinatown. I walked into this place called the White Swan Bakery which had the most amazing array of pastries! I had to try what I can only describe as a 'Sesame Ball'. It was to die for, much better than the already succulent Whole Foods variety. While in Chinatown I decided to venture into the site of a supposed 'Underground Railroad' for Chinese immigrants from the 1880s (at 8 Chatham Square). It was a little basement filled with clinics and therapists and nothing much to see but if my sources were correct, this was the place.

(Photo 1: Ymmm, Sesame Ball... / Photo 2&3: Art on Bowery St)

More street art off Bowery

I continued walking to the Financial District so that I may admire it in its glory on a weekend where all the suits are not crowding the streets. I passed by the Federal Reserve, St. Paul's Chapel, and Fraunces Tavern, all of which were sadly closed on Sundays. I noticed that the Financial District was much like downtown Dallas on the weekend - completely deserted. Thus far I've had horrible timing today, until the afternoon.

I decided to go back uptown to where it seemed everyone and their dog (literally) were - Central Park on a nice Sunday afternoon. Walking through the park I heard some very familiar sounding music... did I hear the Walkmen? Suddenly I get a text message from Ben saying there was a free concert in Central Park - Dinosaur Jr and the Walkmen were playing. How awesome! I found the venue and seeing the large line to get in, I decided to just lay on a big rock and listen to the music echo through the park. Between sets I ventured to Strawberry Fields to the monument for John Lennon. It was a madhouse of tourists and I could barely get a picture of it without someone jumping down to pose. On my way back I ran across 'dance skating' (see video below). Central Park was the place to be on a Sunday! I listened to only a little bit of Dinosaur Jr before heading back to change from a day's worth of sweaty clothes.

That evening I was invited to the East Village to hang out with Ben and his friend Trish (who used to be my favorite waitress at the Meridian Room in Dallas), and Rhett who just got back from Greece and was in town. It was a Dallasite-Reunion! On the way to the subway I ran across a premiere party in Time Square for Madmen. I sat and watched briefly as people dressed in killer 1960s elegant attire were being interviewed and scenes from the previous season were played on a gigantic screen. What great timing I had!

I continued on to the Beauty Bar and arrived just in time for a free comedy show in the back. It was nice to catch up with Trish, Ben, and Rhett and listen to the DJ who eventually played my requested artist - Suicide. I made it an early night, knowing that hanging out with those kids we'd be out possibly ALL night.

Dallasite Reunion!

VIDEOS:
Skate Dancing in Central Park

New York City Day 4: Wondering the Village

Invoked in a conversation last night was the idea that if we were to visit Edgar Allen Poe's Cottage up in Harlem this morning, Ben would be glad to make us an egg sandwich. Figuring that Rachael and I got in around 5:30am, the chances that we'd actually make it out there were slim. We woke up entirely too late to head up to Harlem but decided it could be fun to visit the Oscar Wilde bookstore on Gay Street in the East Village (a substitute literary reference!). Poor Rachael lugged around a huge suitcase through two subway transfers, up and down steps, and when we arrived in the neighborhood where the bookstore was we searched for a good 30 minutes and could not find it. Rachael hailed a taxi to the airport. We said our goodbyes and now I was officially on my own in the city for the next few days.

I finally found the Naked Cowboy!

Since I was there I decided I was going to find Gay Street if it'd take all day. After all, it was on the map and very close. When you've visited a big city you may have discovered that you cannot depend on the sun's position in the sky to figure out which direction you are going due to the shade of massive buildings. It's almost always the case that on your very last day of your visit you have completely conquered your sense of direction, when you need it the least. I found Gay Street at the corner of Christopher. Unfortunately the book store was no longer there, so I decided to walk north-west past LGBT shops, buying interesting postcards for my friends, until I reached the High Line.

The High Line is a preservation project that converted an old freight rail line into a garden / walk path (mix of industrial steel structure with nature). I have read about it in several blogs and was curious to see its transformation. I decided to walk it for a bit, taking a brief break in the shade and watched people walking by and overlooked the Hudson. Very classy.

By this point in the trip, I had to resort to comfort over curiosity and since my hangover was growing increasingly evident, some decadent underground air-conditioned shopping couldn't hurt, so I went down to the Chelsea Market for a bit. I ventured through some grocery stores and delis, including a nice little Italian Deli with a huge selection of olive oils and balsamic vinegars. I bought a bottle for Mike and continued on, sampling fruits and smoothies and being in awe at the beautiful displays of cakes, cupcakes, and cookies, which fueled by hunger for something to eat.


(Obama cookies! From Eleni's)

I hopped the nearest subway and head to the East Village for some curry, which I've been craving since I've been here. A little book I bought (which has helped / hindered my navigation through the city) recommended I stop at 'curry row'. I stepped into this place called Taj and since it was only 4pm, there was not a soul there so I had great service and the food was out quick. The curry was delicious and spicy, just as I'd hoped. I continued walking and came across a free outdoor festival with locals selling their custom designed clothing, jewelry, and even a wonderful little band playing in the streets. I popped into Fabulous Fanny's sunglasses and quickly popped out after seeing the price tags. One thing I love about the East Village is the smorgasbord of ethnic eateries. Within one block I walked past a Ukranian cafe, Polish bakery, a few Italian places, curry row, and Ethiopian cuisine. I love it!

I returned to the hostel to take a much needed nap and woke up after the sun went down. The day was not over yet, so I headed out to the Staten Island Ferry to relax on a free boat ride and $3 beers. What a pleasant day...

New York City Day 3: Culture and Silliness

I woke up much later than I wanted to today but I figure I needed to rest in (after all, the past couple of days my bunkmates loved to rise and shine around 6:30am!). It was a beautiful day so Rachael and I decided to head out to Coney Island on the N Train (which had some astounding views of the residential areas of Brooklyn).

Although Coney Island is nothing like it was in its heyday, many people still... love... the... place. When we arrived to a somewhat sad and completely dead scene. The rides were there but the stands were shut closed. Again it was probably another case of arriving too early. I thought this city never sleeps? We got on Deno's Wonder Wheel and had a grand ol' time overlooking Coney Island and the boardwalk. Rachael and I walked around and discussed our feeling of sadness. It was almost a psychic thing. The amusement parks have been around since the 1870s, yet there was hardly anything to show from it. In a way it reminds me a bit of Fair Park when the State Fair is not in season, except completely neglected.

(Photo 1: Dino's Wonder Wheel / Photo 2&3: I pose, she poses, clowns pose)


(Photos 1 & 2: Sideshow Freaks / Photo 3: Nathan's Dogs)

We got our fortune read by 'Grandma' who was eerily insightful. My fortune read as follows:

Some one has just mailed a letter to you.
That letter will keep you from being blue.

Have you been lonesome lately? I see your days of lonesomeness ending. The future holds a happy reunion with a loved one. And no wonder you are loved. You have a very considerate and generous nature and are interested in all who are about you. You are a brilliant conversationalist. You will soon be offered an opportunity to travel. Refuse it. Your best interest lies in staying at home. I see a great financial change in your status in the near future.

Thanks Granny!

Before leaving Rachael and I tried some of the world famous Nathans Dogs (some fresh cut fries and hot hots).

We then hopped on the subway and headed to Ground Zero, the World Trade Center site. Talk about incredible eeriness. The first thing we hear coming out of the subway is a man giving a somewhat tour describing the settings of the morning of the attack. Although there was not much to see, there was a huge chuck of missing skyline that took up at least a quarter mile. It seems like ever time you come out of a subway you have no idea which way your destination is but such a huge chunk of nothingness was hard to miss.

We got back to the hostel and ate at the Cranberry Deli next door and headed to the MOMA for their free Target Free Friday Night Admission - amazing photography exhibits, music multi-media, architecture. Ben met up with me and we both marvelled at the room with measured heights of all the visitors. We decided to pick up Rachael and head to McSorely's, a very old bar from the 1830s. Although it was packed me managed to get a few brews and Ben showed me Abe Lincoln's chair, Houdini's cufflinks, and the eerie wishbones covered in dust.

Ben wanted to show us a few different places that night so we started off at a basement bar in the East Village, then to Brooklyn to a dive called The Subway which had $2 PBRs and skeeball in the back (rad!). We talked for hours about the paranormal, quantum physics, and caught up on the past (old friends he left behind in Dallas, how life is different in New York City). Little did we know but time slipped past us faster than we could anticipate and it was 5am! Oops.

We drunkenly navigated our way through the subways to our separate destinations and I had the very strange experience of walking through Time Square when it was almost completely deserted. I would definitely be sleeping in the next morning... (photo of Ben getting stuck in the Subway doors, tisk tisk!

• Ben's Photo Album from this day
  

Videos:
Top of the Wonder Wheel at Coney Island


Skeeball at the Subway Bar in Brooklyn


Ben talks about Poached Eggs for a LONG time.

New York City, Day 1: Splash!

I woke up slightly hungover to my Italian bunk mate going through an extremely extensive pampering that I will learn is a daily morning habit. I decided to walk around town, wandering into Grand Central Station and a few accessory shops on 6th Ave (I bought the cutest feather headband!). We spent most of the morning slowly waking up and didn't end up 'heading out' until the afternoon.

We took the subway to the Brooklyn Bridge. The clouds were dark and looking as if they were about to spill any time soon but we decided to start walking the bridge anyways to Brooklyn. The views were spectacular! Unfortunately it started pouring down rain as we were half way to the other side and all we had was the shelter of the bridge's arcs and a measly umbrella I decided to bring at the last minute. There we were for about 40 minutes and the rain never ceased. Rachael and I decided we were going to bolt for the other side, and got completely soaked in the process. As we were almost to Brooklyn, a car drives by this huge puddle and like Shamu sends a huge splash onto us. Welcome to Brooklyn! We could not stop laughing, the situation was ridiculous. Rachael's feet were blistered up like crazy and I luckily had shielded my camera with the umbrella. Where were we to go in this situation wet as dogs?

(Rachael and I just saw Shamu!)

We decided to hang out in Brooklyn for a bit, having a pizza at the Front Street Pizza Parlor. Just a bit down the street I noticed was the Brazen Head, this pub I heard about that had a great selection of cask ales and plenty of free food. Upon entering there was a huge table filled with bread, crackers, brie / cheddar / garlic cheese, and pretzels. Best bar food presentation ever! Rachael went with the UFO Raspberry Wheat beer and I tried both the Stoudt's American Pale Ale and Captain Lawrence Espresso Stout. We were exhausted and hung out there for a while, talking briefly with the bar owner about the photography in the place, then make a long trek back to the nearest subway.

The evening was pleasant... I discovered a liquor store down the street, took a long and much needed shower, and hung out with the young men from Australia late into the night (they were drinking Fosters... I had to giggle). We called it an early night.

Videos:

New York City, Night 1: Getting Cozy

What a rough flight! Rachael and I both arrive at Laguardia and meet up to take a taxi into town. Knowing the Big Apple Hostel was going to be near Time Square, we did not expect the grand arrival going right through it and arriving at the place only a block away. We were both glued to our windows, watching the towering buildings of Manhattan and taking in the strange stench of the air (a mix of street food, and garbage... considering we were coming in the evening before trash pick up the streets were filled with garbage bags.

Rachael ended up bunked with a group of three asian girls who spoke no English. She was not happy. I never got to see my roommates until late at night and early in the morning.
We immediately went out to scout a place to eat as we were starving and lo and behold was a wonderful little deli next door called the Cranberry Cafe. We pretty much downed some Italian pflatbread sandwiches and decided to go explore our surroundings.
On the corner of 7th and 45th was, day in and day out, the same person dressed as Elmo for photographs. I became very fond of him / her considering we passed him constantly. It was night and I walked to the Rockefeller Center and Radio City Hall, passing the smells of curry being cooked on street carts. Rachael was quite distressed with her overzealous roommates so we decided we needed to find a cheap drinking hole so that we may pass out easily the first night. We stumbled upon the Blarney Stone west of Time Square, a relatively empty bar that had great music playing. The bartender was Irish and he poured stiff drinks. We spent the majority of the time entertained by the bum across the street everyone referred to as "Bobby". He was blatantly shooting up heroine as people walked by sometimes doing a triple-take. Stay classy NYC, stay classy.

On the way back we We stopped at this little place called the Rum House where a lounge singer who claimed to have been there over a 16 years sang us some Nat King Cole songs. Between songs she asked Rachael and I if we were singers, considering I was wording the songs along with her (I grew up listening to Nat King Cole). Like a deer in the headlight, Rachael said, "We're EX-singers" and left soon afterwards.
We spent the rest of the evening at the hostel hanging out with a group of Australian tourists drinking Newcastle and talking about the city. They were going on a somewhat tour through America, next stop Las Vegas. A young French guy sat with us briefly. Talk about an international experience. It was a good night to start off our vacation.