"I just saw a woman dying on the street, two funeral processions, and a man get punched in the same block in Chinatown. I think I'm ready to go home."
Although my day started off rough (all because I wanted a sesame ball in Chinatown), the rest of the day proved to be a relaxing pace. It had to have been one of the hottest days of my visit, so much so that there were numerous fires in the subway tunnels which caused me to walk on the surface of Manhattan. I attempted to visit the Met but it was closed on Mondays, then ventured through Central Park, getting lost on the way. That's ok! I found a castle, a moat, and ran into Strawberry Fields again. When I finally came to a clearing there I was, in front of the American Museum of Natural History. I had a nice little coconut ice cream bar and headed in to stake out in the cool air conditioning for many hours. Ahhh civilization.
The museum had huge banners for a show called Journey To The Stars which I decided to see. Although it was narrated by Whoopie Goldberg, I was not impressed at all. The content must have been targeted at an audience about half my age. "Something that has a large mass has a lot of stuff inside it!"
I decided that since this was my last day I would go to the East Village and get an awesome slice of pizza at a store I'd wandered by often - Muzzarella Pizza. It was full of veggies and oh so wonderful! I nearly scarfed it down when a nice older Puerto Rican man pulled up a seat next to me and started randomly talking to me. We talked about family and relationships and he was the nicest man ever. He said he'd pray for my safe return home. How incredibly random.
I honestly forgot what I did for the rest of the evening besides take a nice walk on the Brooklyn Bridge and attempt to join my friends at a Bingo night. I arrived at the Bowery Poetry Club a little after Bingo night had started to a drag queen announcing the silly prizes. I couldn't find a seat except at the very back and when attempting to buy a bingo card I was yelled at by some fat girl saying I was blocking the view. I obviously needed a drink but when I tried to order a beer the bartender never brought it to me and I was asked to give up my seat to 'people who had bingo cards'. I'd had my share of New York City rudeness but none so much as the cool artsy hipsters of the East Village, ironically. I headed to Mc Sorelys again as if to completely change the scenery (no drag-queen hosted bingo night for me, I'll take my Gangs of New York City backdrop please). I had a few ales and was finally able to spot Houdini's handcuffs as there was actual standing room this night.
Mc Sorely's on a Monday / Houdini's hand cuffs
I had a great trip full of adventures! I wish I'd have had more time to relax in the city. Sometimes when you go somewhere you haven't been in a long time there is pressure to fit in as much as you can. Perhaps my next visit to the city won't be so hectic, I hope so :-)
Finally I had a good night's rest! I started by day going next door for some coffee and some fruit from their wonderful breakfast bar. It's been so convenient to have the Cranberry Cafe right next to the hostel... great food, 24-hours, and affordable. I've been having to force myself to not eat there for every meal and to actually try out the other amazing foods this city has to offer.
I wanted to check out Hell's Kitchen Flea Market this morning but in order to do so I spent about 30 minutes trying to get around a huge half-marathon race going straight through Time Square. When I got there I felt as if I were intruding on a private party of the vendors. Once again, as for most of this trip it seems, it was a case of 'out and about way too early'. It was incredibly hot today and all they had at this market was full of nice antiques and winter jackets, neither of which appealed to me. On my way out, an Asian man pulled me aside to his massage tent. I insisted that I definitely did not want a massage but he gave me a sample, refusing to let me go. I finally broke loose saying firmly "Don't touch me again." He obviously did not get my business and I bolted out of there.
I decided to head to the Village... again. I was desiring a nice brunch and this seemed to be the area to do so. I walked into Veselka and had a mimosa, the Chef's Omelet (feta cheese and spinach), and some Challah. It was so incredibly delicious, though I'm not sure how Ukranian it was was, haha. An artist Greta Gertler wrote a song about this restaurant (called Veselka) I discovered later and have fallen in love with it! Check it out on the restaurant's website.
I decided to walk down the Bowery to Chinatown to walk off all the food I've even by the ripe hour of 10:30am. I walked past a block dedicated to restaurant equipment, for lighting and lamps, and finally made it to Chinatown. I walked into this place called the White Swan Bakery which had the most amazing array of pastries! I had to try what I can only describe as a 'Sesame Ball'. It was to die for, much better than the already succulent Whole Foods variety. While in Chinatown I decided to venture into the site of a supposed 'Underground Railroad' for Chinese immigrants from the 1880s (at 8 Chatham Square). It was a little basement filled with clinics and therapists and nothing much to see but if my sources were correct, this was the place.
(Photo 1: Ymmm, Sesame Ball... / Photo 2&3: Art on Bowery St)
More street art off Bowery
I continued walking to the Financial District so that I may admire it in its glory on a weekend where all the suits are not crowding the streets. I passed by the Federal Reserve, St. Paul's Chapel, and Fraunces Tavern, all of which were sadly closed on Sundays. I noticed that the Financial District was much like downtown Dallas on the weekend - completely deserted. Thus far I've had horrible timing today, until the afternoon.
I decided to go back uptown to where it seemed everyone and their dog (literally) were - Central Park on a nice Sunday afternoon. Walking through the park I heard some very familiar sounding music... did I hear the Walkmen? Suddenly I get a text message from Ben saying there was a free concert in Central Park - Dinosaur Jr and the Walkmen were playing. How awesome! I found the venue and seeing the large line to get in, I decided to just lay on a big rock and listen to the music echo through the park. Between sets I ventured to Strawberry Fields to the monument for John Lennon. It was a madhouse of tourists and I could barely get a picture of it without someone jumping down to pose. On my way back I ran across 'dance skating' (see video below). Central Park was the place to be on a Sunday! I listened to only a little bit of Dinosaur Jr before heading back to change from a day's worth of sweaty clothes.
That evening I was invited to the East Village to hang out with Ben and his friend Trish (who used to be my favorite waitress at the Meridian Room in Dallas), and Rhett who just got back from Greece and was in town. It was a Dallasite-Reunion! On the way to the subway I ran across a premiere party in Time Square for Madmen. I sat and watched briefly as people dressed in killer 1960s elegant attire were being interviewed and scenes from the previous season were played on a gigantic screen. What great timing I had!
I continued on to the Beauty Bar and arrived just in time for a free comedy show in the back. It was nice to catch up with Trish, Ben, and Rhett and listen to the DJ who eventually played my requested artist - Suicide. I made it an early night, knowing that hanging out with those kids we'd be out possibly ALL night.
Today I was well rested and Rachael and I decided we were going to spend this day separately. I started off walking to Grand Central Station to admire it's beauty and architecture and to catch the subway to the East Village. Unfortunately for me as an early riser there was nothing open except a few cafes, but that was ok for me. The beautiful stores were barred up and the weather was dreary but there was not a soul on the streets - a very rare sight I would assume. I decided to sit at a little cafe and watch the neighborhood come to life, before heading to the Staten Island Ferry.
(Scenes of the East Village in the morning)
The Ferry was a wonderful experience. I saw the lady of the harbor in all her glory (and behind many heads of tourists) and even got chilly from the cold Atlantic breeze. It was fun to people watch as well... an array of multi-ethnic families all behaving differently. Parents and children, lovers, friends. I sometimes wonder if NYC realizes how lucky it is to have such diversity.
I stopped off in Greenwich Village, walking past the NYU campus and stopping in The Strand (a supposed 18 miles of books, five stories tall). I kept to the first floor, browsing the section about New York City history. I went away with a book on the history of the Subway Transit and a book about the Yankee Stadium for my father. On my way to Union Square to head back to Uptown, I barely missed getting poured on again. Beat ya this time weather!
I tried my first meal from a street vendor - a falafal salad (which was much more unhealthy than it sounds...). I then strolled up to Central Park. It is breathtakingly beautiful this time of year... a gorgeous vast park with hills, trees, with a cityscape backdrop like distant mountains. I began to understand the draw of this city a bit more. People put up with their tiny overpriced apartments because with a slide of your metro card you're minutes away from parks, beaches, entertainment, and any sort of food you're in the mood for. This day in Central Park there were numerous baseball games, Frisbee tournaments, lovers napping in the shade almost completely hidden from all the others.
I went back to get ready for a concert my friend Ben, who's been living in the city for almost a year, invited me to. The Donnas, Pat Benatar, and Blondie would play at Brighton Park for free! I took the Q train to Coney Island and the park was completely packed with people young and old, people sporting full out 80s attire, and families picnicking. The Donnas played only a short set, making sure to get their hit in. Pat Benetar blew us away... she still had that gruff voice of hers. So awesome! We listened to Blondie but after standing for hours, Ben and I decided to head out before the crowd dispersed. It was so surreal waiting at the station watching the lights of the Coney Island amusement park as Blondie echoed through the trees.
We decided we were not ready to end the night and went to Planet Rose, a karaoke place in the Village. The place was tiny and thin and packed with people. In the back were Zebra print couches and leopard print carpet. I had promised that I would sing Pat Benatar if Ben did as well, so we signed up and to our amusement an amazing singer wearing Ben's same hat had signed up for his SAME song earlier. Awkward! Ben got up there and just over-performed and people were much more entertained. I was in my 'own little world' when singing my song, high-kicking and cracking people up. Can you guess the song I chose? LOVE IS A BATTLEFIELD (the song that seems to follow me around on my vacations). Everyone was happy and carefree, the bartender even bought me a shot of Old Crow, which I can now say is only decent IN mixed drinks, not as a shot, yuck. Ben and I separated ways on the subway. Fun times...
VIDEOS: Ben and I singing on the way back to the subway after Karaoke
“Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn’t do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines, sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.” - Mark Twain